Down in Thrace

I only have a few more days in Brasov, which is somewhat hard to believe. At the same time, I'm totally ready to be back in the U.S.A. The only thing that would convince me otherwise would be a paid position traveling in the Black Sea region for the next few months.

I just spent a week in Bulgaria, which turns out to be an awesome country. I started out with a few days relaxing on the beach at Varna, then moved on to the old Bulgarian capital city, Veliko Tarnovo. I stopped for one day in Plovdiv, an old Roman city that was built on seven hills, but now only has six because one was leveled during communism. It's now the second-largest Bulgarian city, and it has a very cool vibe to it. Basically, the old part of the city has literal layers of Roman life below layers of 19th and early 20th century life, below communist life, and now modern life. It's a fascinating combination.

Finally I spent a few days in and around Sofia, which surprised me with its endless supply of well preserved buildings. Unlike in Bucharest, the beauty of these massive and varied churches seems to outweigh the ugliness of the communist blocks (but I'm not hating on the Buc here). It also helps that the city looks up at Mount Vitosha. And my own experience wasn't hurt by the shady green trees covering the city.

I have many photos, but I have to wait until I'm back in the States to develop them. Bulgaria will seem much more beautiful then, I promise.

Varna's delightful vegetarian offering

Beach volleyball in Varna

Layers of time in Plovdiv

Roadtrip Report

It's nearly 2 a.m., I have to wake up in just over four hours, and I probably had too much wine at dinner, but I have computer access for the last time for awhile, and as you know, I've been neglecting my blog.

I am wrapping up my five-day road trip of Romania with my dad. We've been to Bucharest and its Athenaeum, the port city of Constanta, the sleepy and admittedly filthy city of Tulcea, the quiet waters of the Danube Delta, the ferry barge across the Danube to Braila, the rural landscapes, Pelis and Pelisor palaces in Sinaia, the fortress at Rasnov, and some of my favorite restaurants in Brasov. It's been hilarious to see my dad's reactions to Romania—alternating between surprise and even disgust, then amazement and appreciation. Today it became a "fairytale" and he even started pronouncing words (more) correctly. And he likes tuica.

Here are some photos from our adventures:

The Black Sea and Old Constanta from the mosque.

Constanta's port. Trying to become bigger than Rotterdam.

Fixing a flat tire—an obligatory part of any road trip.

Sunset on the Danube Delta, in Tulcea.

Tulcea fishermen

On the ferry across the Danube

My dad's photo of the exciting tennis courts in Brasov, where Ion Tiriac got his start.

Birthday dinner in Brasov (at nearly midnight).

A Taste of May, Pt. 1

Love the countryside

The Fagaras Mountains

Elections were held on June 1 all over the country

People watching, Timisoara

Pigeon watching, Timisoara

Already June

Where have I been? My computer has retired, freeing up a lot of my time—which I've been using to enjoy the sunshine and the greenness of Romania.

In the weeks since I've updated, I've had a slew of visitors in Brasov, a trip to Timisoara for several nights out and days in Central European cafes, one to Craiova for a presentation, a few days in Bucharest for the American studies conference—with all of its receptions, plays, and hours spent wandering the streets of my favorite Romanian city—a lovely weekend in Maramures (just concluded), and I'm currently in Cluj.

In spite of all the things to do, I have still had time to reflect on what it means that I'm leaving Romania in just one month. I wish I could stay at least for the rest of the summer, since this country has become incredibly beautiful in the past month.

My dad is coming to visit this weekend and next week, so I'll have more brief updates, and hopefully some photos as well.