Somehow, Cluj

I finally got out. As my train pulled out of Brasov last Saturday, I realized that only once before had I taken the train in that westerly direction. I've been to Bucharest or at least Sinaia somewhere in the range of 10 times, so I know the exact pattern of landmarks and neighborhoods that we pass on the south-eastern train. But heading west I didn't know what to expect except a tunnel or two. The train ride to Cluj was fascinating in itself, but I'll save that for another time because right now I can't get my mind off this university town in northern Transilvania.

I'd heard Cluj described in a way that made it sound no more appealing than any other town in Transilvania and no more appealing than any other university city in Romania. But after my tough winter months in one of Transilvania's loveliest Saxon village centers, I appreciated a number of aspects of Cluj's youthful aesthetic.

The people there look cooler. No lie. They are more stylish, carry themselves in a more confident way. The men don't check out every girl that walks by or try to block your path. The girls walk around individually instead of going everywhere holding the hands of their best friends. The jeans are a little looser and the hair gel is quieter.

The city is cleaner. I personally didn't see any stray dogs. The streets weren't crumbling as much - they had streets that climaxed in 90 degree corners and sometimes even sidewalks lacking a complete cover of cars.

The students study, and even look studious. The tea house was packed with students talking and working on their laptops. The library stood imposingly over a city square, as did the student cultural center.

Apparently, Cluj has benefited from a wealthier local economy. The university was somehow chosen to be the focus of Romanian higher education - this is where you're most likely to encounter exchange students or foreign scholars (though Bucharest could be similar). The medical school is renowned and doctor's offices are ubiquitous. I assume that the students either come from wealthier families or benefit from more government financial aid, because I was surprised to see how many students were out on the town and in the coffee shops instead of saving their pennies for dinner or dorm fees.


The city somehow felt more sophisticated than other Romanian cities. Of course, that could be because we (myself and four other Fulbright women) indulged in things like a sushi restaurant and the massive and brand new mall. But I also got an excellent vibe from the city. I hope to go back soon.

But before that, more travels! On Friday I head far west to Timisoara, on Saturday over to Serbia for the weekend, then back to Bucharest for Fulbright Orientation 2.0. This week is like spring break in January.